Cologne is a great German city, where most people think of the majestic cathedral, which is one of the world’s largest churches, and which since the foundation of the church has been a pilgrimage church because of the relics of the Biblical Magi. The church continues to throne over the city as one of both Germany and Europe’s major buildings, and a visit to the church is worth the whole trip to Cologne.
Cologne has so much else to offer besides the cathedral. With the status of Roman colony, there was an early city here, and relics from that time are still to be seen in many places in the city and in museums. Today the Roman monuments blend with Cologne’s numerous large churches, mainly dating to the Romanesque period, the medieval city gates, cozy squares and modern Cologne.
Sights, museums, gastronomy and shopping are plentiful in Cologne, and at the same time there is a nice, relaxed atmosphere that fits well with a cold Kölsch. The Rhine river meanders along the city center, and the river promenade is a nice place for a walk with views to the old town, for example from the green settings in Rheinpark.
You can also enjoy a ride in the Cologne cable car across the Rhine from the botanical and zoological gardens in the west to the baths at the hot springs in the east. Hot spas are found in several places and in several hotels in the city, and the Romans already used these natural sources of water in their construction of the city. Today, the water is one of many reasons for a visit.
Cologne Cathedral is one of the world’s largest churches, the city’s landmark, place of pilgrimage, seat of the archbishop of the Catholic Church and included on UNESCO’s list of world heritage sites. It is dedicated to Saint Peter and the Virgin Mary and is officially called Hohe Domkirche Sankt Peter und Maria.
In Cologne Cathedral, relics of the Holy Three Kings are kept. They came here in 1164, when Archbishop Rainald von Dassel acquired them. The relics were important to all Christians and had to be in a significant place. When Cologne’s then cathedral burned in 1248, a new and large church had to be built, and this was the starting point for the current building.
In 1322, the first part of the church was consecrated, and it functioned separated by a wall from the rest of the building. Construction continued until 1473, when further work was put on hold for almost 400 years; however, some work continued until 1560. On top of the unfinished southern tower stood a crane that could be seen until the 1800s and stood as a sign that everything had stopped on the building’s exterior. Inside, a bit happened until the 16th century.
In the 19th century there were more and more requests to complete the cathedral; not least after finding the original drawings of the unfinished facade. In 1842, a company to collect funds for the purpose was founded, and they managed to scrape together most of the money. The remaining part was set aside by the state of Prussia, who saw the cathedral as a symbol of the state’s hospitality to the many Catholics who had come under Prussia after the Congress of Vienna in 1815.
With modern construction methods, the project progressed quickly after construction began in 1842. The bells could be installed in the 1870s, and after 632 years of construction, Emperor Wilhelm I could see the inauguration of Germany’s largest cathedral in 1880.
During World War II’s almost total destruction of Cologne, the cathedral was hit around 70 times. It survived all the challenges and, at the end of the war, stood relatively intact in the heap of ruins that surrounded it.
The impressive dimensions are 157 meters in height and a ground surface that reaches 144×86 meters. From its completion in 1880 until the construction of the Washington Monument in the US capital in 1884, Cologne Cathedral was the world’s tallest building. Today, the height of the church spiers is surpassed only by the church in Ulm.
You can go up to a height of 98 meters to an observation platform, from which there is an excellent view of the city and the Rhine. In the church, it is not least the size that impresses; in the hub there are, for example, 43 meters to the ceiling. From the Middle Ages, the choir and the high altar offer quite interesting details, and the most famous is the gilded 13th-century sarcophagus, which contains the relics of the Three Holy Kings. In the church you can also see the Gero Cross/Gero-Kreuz, which dates from around 960.
Of the cathedral’s eleven bells, four are from the Middle Ages. The oldest is the Three King Bell/Dreikönigenglocke, which was cast in 1418 and installed in 1437. The heaviest bell is the Saint Peter’s Bell/Sankt Petersglocke, which weighs 24 tons.
The Romano-Germanic museum is built on the site where a villa stood in Cologne’s Roman times. It exhibits both the remains of the villa and a number of finds from the city of Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium, which was the forerunner of today’s Cologne.
You can see, among other things, the Dionysos mosaic/Dionysos mosaic, which is preserved in the local villa, which dates from the 200s. Here is also a preserved piece of the old Roman harbor street in the city, busts, portals and other finds.
The Hohenzollern Bridge was built over the Rhine in the years 1907-1911 as a replacement for the former Dombrücke. It originally consisted of two parallel railway bridges and a car bridge, but during the reconstruction after World War II, only the railway bridges were rebuilt. Later, a third track section was added, and at the far end on both sides there are walking and cycling sections, so that you can enjoy the trip across the river without having to take the train. The bridge is 409 meters long and 29.5 meters wide.
Also during the Second World War, the bridge was traffic-significant, but despite several attacks it remained functional until the German engineering squad blew it up on March 6, 1945. This happened in connection with the advance of the Allied forces and the capture of Cologne. In May 1948, the first part of the bridge was reopened.
The Wallraf-Richartz Museum is a distinguished art museum with collections from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. It was founded in 1824, opened to the public three years later and is today housed in a building from 2001. The collection of medieval paintings in particular is world famous, and there is also a fine selection from later centuries.
The museum’s name comes from the university rector Ferdinand Franz Wallraf, who left a collection of works to the city upon his death in 1824, and from the merchant Johann Heinrich Richartz, who in 1851 donated money for an independent museum building.
The city building opened in 1861, and among the artists represented are, for example, Albrecht Dürer, Rubens, Rembrandt, van Dyck and Vincent van Gogh.
Cologne’s city museum depicts the city’s history through thousands of effects. It opened in 1888 with first locations in the Hahnentorburg and Eigelsteintorburg city gates. Since 1958 it has been located in the former clothing store, Zeughaus.
At the museum, there are many fixed themes that you can go through, and special exhibitions are also organized on special themes in the city’s history. A fixed theme is political Cologne, where the focus is on the period from the late Middle Ages to the post-war period of the 20th century.
In the 6th century, a church building was consecrated for the first time with certainty on this site, where the impressive, Romanesque Saint Gereon Basilica now stands. The basilica was built 1151-1227; partly on the former Roman wall around the city. In the building you can find remains of a construction dating back to the 4th century, however, it is believed that ecclesiastical use only took place from the following century. In any case, the church is one of the oldest in Germany.
From the outside, the church has characteristic twin towers and a decagonal dome with a base size of approximately 21×17 meters and a height of 34 meters. The dome was the largest built in Europe for centuries; until the 15th century cathedral in Florence.
Inside, the church was decorated in 1191 with the Gereonsalter altar. From that time you can see wall paintings, while the floor is partly adorned by Elmar Hillebrand’s rendering of parts of the martyrdom of Saint Gereon. Of particular interest are the remains from the ancient building. Apses and parts of floor mosaics have been preserved.
Groß Sankt Martin is a Catholic church whose history dates back to around the year 960, when Archbishop Brun von Sachsen founded the site and dedicated it to St. Morten; also known as Martin of Tours. This earliest church was even established on the foundations of a Roman-era building.
The current church was built around 100 years after the city fire in 1150. The style is Romanesque, and the distinctive tower has been one of the dominant buildings in Cologne’s skyline ever since.
Groß Sankt Martin also functioned as a monastery until 1802. At that time there were still 21 monks here who had to find other places to live. The abandoned buildings were temporarily used by French veterans, but otherwise demolished and reused as building materials elsewhere in the city. After the Second World War, only a few walls remained, and in 1985 it was able to reopen in an elegantly rebuilt style.
The name Great St Martin comes from the fact that there were two churches dedicated to St. Martin. Of Little St Martin/Klein Sankt Martin, only the tower is preserved today (Augustinerstraße 25).
Museum Ludwig was established in 1976 and exhibits a collection of modern art. The starting point was industrialist Peter Ludwig’s donation of 350 works in return for the foundation of the museum. The distinctive museum building was designed by Peter Busmann and Godfrid Haberer, and it opened in 1986 in a prominent location immediately next to Cologne Cathedral.
The museum’s collection consists of works from 1900 to the present day, and there is much to see on a visit here. Among other things, Peter Ludwig had established a collection of works by Pablo Picasso, which is one of the largest in the world. In Sammlung Ludwig there is also Russian avant-garde art and American pop art. You can also see works from Josef Haubrich’s collection, which for example contain expressionism and modernism.
Old Market Square is one of the largest squares in Cologne’s old town. In Roman times, the area lay outside the walls and was used as a port. Gradually, the place became covered with sand, and it became part of the city’s expansion. Today, the square is characterized by the many gable houses, several of which are interesting.
Gaffel Haus (Alter Markt 20-22) is the square’s oldest house; it was built with a single gable in 1213. In 1580 it was extended with a twin house, so that today it stands as a double house. The name Gaffel Haus comes from the brewery that has been located here since 1987.
Cologne’s town hall consists of several buildings that have been built continuously since the 14th century. In the past, the Roman Praetorium was located here, and until 475 it was the seat of the Roman governor. From at least 1135, a form of city government was established on the site, and in 1330 the Romanesque building was replaced by the Saalbau in the current town hall complex. The core of the Saalbau and the entire town hall is the meeting hall Hansasaal, which measures 30×7 meters in floor area.
The 61 meter high town hall tower, Ratsturm, was built 1407-1414. The Renaissance loggia Rathauslaube is from the years 1569-1573. It includes, among other things, the balcony from which the public was continuously addressed. In the Dutch Renaissance, the so-called Spanish Building/Spanischer Bau was built 1608-1615. The name comes from the Spanish delegates who were here during the 30 Years’ War in the 17th century.
In connection with the reconstruction after the Second World War, the large atrium, the Piazzetta, was constructed, forming a small space between the older buildings.
4711 is one of Cologne’s trademarks that makes its way around large parts of the world. In this house on Glockengasse, the famous eau de Cologne was born, and since then it has been one of the leading brands of perfume.
Haus 4711 is in itself an experience with the distinctive exterior and fine interior, where you will find the 4.5×3.5 meter tapestry depicting the house numbering at 4711 during the city’s French era. It is said that there were around 7,500 houses in Cologne when General Daurier ordered them numbered in 1796 for better orientation. A French soldier on a white horse rode around, and he gave this particular house the number 4711.
The retelling of the soldier’s ride and the numbering can be experienced in the house’s carillon on the facade. Figures come out at full hours, and here the Marseillaise is played, among other things.
The name 4711 has been used since 1881, when competitors were finally banned from using the Farina name for eau de Cologne, as the original manufacturer used it. Instead, the owner, Ferdinand Mülhens, decided to call it the old house number. Mülhens had already been producing eau de Cologne since 1803, but under a Farina name.
Cologne water bears the world-famous name Eau de Cologne. This fragrant perfume is an extract of natural scents, and it has been produced in Cologne since Johann Maria Farina in 1709 mixed the scents of orange, bergamot, cedar, lemon, grape, lime, tangerine and herbs with water.
Farina called the fragrance Echt Kölnisch Wasser, and it is the original that is still produced and sold. Johann Maria Farina opposite Jülichs Sted/Johann Maria Farina gegenüber dem Jülichs-Platz was the name of Farina’s factory, and that building remains today the setting for the original Eau de Cologne. Among other things, the Fragrance Museum is located here, where you can see an exhibition about perfume production.
Gürzenich is a ballroom building that was built 1441-1447 on the grounds of the patrician family von Gürzenich; hence the name. The castle-like house was supposed to provide a framework for various meetings and cultural events, and this is a function it continues to have today.
Among the highlights over time is the holding of the Reichstag in 1505, in which the later German-Roman Emperor Maximilian I participated. On May 6, 1849, Karl Marx delivered his Communist Manifesto in the hall of Gürzenich.
Over the centuries, Gürzenich has also laid floors for e.g. magazine purposes, the city’s philharmonic orchestra and masked balls.
The Alt Sankt Alban church was consecrated in 1172. Its tower was added in 1494, and the church was rebuilt in the 17th century. In 1896, the facade was changed, and during the Second World War, Alt Sankt Alban was destroyed, so that only the walls partially remained.
In 1959, the church was laid out as a memorial monument for the victims of the world wars. It was left standing as a ruin and is thus seen without a roof and windows. Instead, a Ny Sankt Alban/Neu Sankt Alban was erected elsewhere in Cologne.
At this museum you can take an ethnological journey through the cultures of the world. The collections consist of tens of thousands of effects from all over the world; from the Inuit to the life and history of Polynesian peoples.
The museum’s exhibition is presented excitingly by taking up global themes and conveying how these have regionally developed in different directions. As something special, there is also a junior section, the Junior Museum, which appeals to children and young people.
The Antoniterkirche is a late Gothic church that in 1805 became Cologne’s first Protestant church. Previously it belonged to the Antonite Order, which in the 18th century became part of the Johannite Order.
In the church, you can see, among other things, window parts from the 16th century and the sculpture Den Svævende/Der Schwebende, which was made by Ernst Barlach in 1926-1927. The horizontally floating sculpture is also called the Barlach-Engel/Barlach-Engel and was made for the cathedral in Güstrow. In the 1930s, works of art, including Barlach’s, were labeled as degenerate art/Entartete Kunst by the German regime, and in 1937 the angel was removed and melted down.
Some of Barlach’s friends and followers found the original plaster figure and in 1939 had a copy produced. The copy was saved until after World War II, when it was put up for sale. Cologne companies raised money, and in 1952 the angel could be hung in the Antoniterkirche.
Rheinpark is a large green area along the eastern bank of the Rhine. The area became vacant when Cologne’s defenses were dismantled, and from 1907 they began to turn the otherwise fallow land green.
In 1914, the Werkbund exhibition/Werkbundausstellung was established here, and among the primary sights was Bruno Taut’s glass pavilion. The First World War put an end to the exhibition and the continued establishment of the park, but in the first half of the 1920s there was new activity. The first buildings in the Kölner Messe exhibition complex were established here. From the 1920s, to the southwest in the Rheinpark is the 80-metre-high Exhibition Tower/Messeturm and the Staatenhaus with its long, curved facade.
Around the park from north to south, you can ride the miniature railway Kleinbahn im Rheinpark, which was built in connection with a garden exhibition in 1957. The track had a gauge of 381 mm; it was later expanded to 600 mm during a re-routing in 1971. The round trip is 2 kilometres.
Ulrepforte is one of the four preserved, fortified city gates from Cologne’s medieval city wall. It was built at the beginning of the 13th century and inaugurated in 1245. With a passage of four metres, the gate was the narrowest of the city’s gates, and the fortification consisted of two semi-circular towers. In 1450, Ulrepforte got a new purpose, as the gate was bricked up and converted into the Kartäuser Windmühle mill. This is the reason for the tall tower that can be seen at the gate today.
Ulrepforte was at the center of battles in Cologne in 1268. Here the archbishop’s soldiers lined up in front of the city wall, and there were about 300 of these who had penetrated the fortifications through a hole that the archbishop’s people had made a local shoemaker. It was a time when Cologne led by the Overstolz family strove for independence from the power of the bishop, and during the battle the citizens of Cologne defended themselves and managed to defeat the invaders.
Bonn is a federal city located in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia. Its history dates back to the century BC, making Bonn one of Germany’s oldest cities. A transition in history, it was the capital of the Electorate of Cologne, but it was not least in the decades after World War II that Bonn entered the history books. In the years 1949-1990, the city was the capital of West Germany.
Today, Bonn remains the seat of a number of federal institutions and ministries, and the city is also home to Villa Hammerschmidt, which serves as the German president’s second residence and office after Schloss Bellevue in Berlin. In Bonn, you can also visit the Bundesviertel district, which was the center of political West Germany. You can e.g. see the Bundeshaus, where the sessions of the Bundestag parliament took place.
Aachen is Germany’s westernmost big city, and it is located in the state of North Rhine-Westphalia. The city was founded by the Romans, and it quickly developed into a politically important city. Charlemagne of the Frankish Empire chose Aachen as his city of residence, and subsequently 31 German-Roman emperors were crowned in the city’s cathedral as Germanic kings. Today, Aachen is located on the border between Germany, Belgium and the Netherlands, and it has sights on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
In the center of the city you can see Aachener Dom, which is one of the oldest cathedrals in Europe. It was Charlemagne who founded the great church in which he himself was buried in 814. In the cathedral you can enjoy a particularly beautiful interior that dates back to the time of Charlemagne. The center of the construction is Oktogon, which was built 795-803, and where today, among other things, you can see Charlemagne’s marble throne, which was subsequently used by many German kings.
Linz am Rhein is a particularly cozy small town along the Rhine, whose history dates back to at least the 8th century, when it is known to have been mentioned for the first time. Linz am Rhein developed not least in the 1300s and 1300s, when the city, among other things, obtained certain rights under Cologne’s archbishop Heinrich II. von Virneburg at the beginning of the 14th century. In the 19th century, city walls and city gates were taken down, and here the steamships began to dock at the city’s quays.
Today, in the streets of the historic Altstadt, you can see many of the half-timbered houses for which the city is particularly famous. You can also enjoy the atmosphere in the squares Burgplatz and Marktplatz, where the 16th-century town hall stands. At Burgplatz lies Burg Linz, which was built in 1365 and which over time belonged to the Electors of Cologne. From the city walls you can see the Neutor and Rheintor gates and the Linzer Pulverturm tower.
You can also choose to see Linz am Rhein and the area from above from the Kaiserberg hill, which is immediately south of the city and where there is easy access from the Altstadt. It is also possible to sail across the Rhine with the Rheinfähre Linz-Kripp and see the city and the river from a distance. A few kilometers northwest of Linz am Rhein, you can see the remains of the Ludendorff-Brücke bridge, which was known from the Battle of Remagen in 1945. Today, the bridge piers remain on both sides of the river, and on the north side you can see the entrance to the old tunnel , which was an extension of the bridge.
Brühl is a city that is close to Cologne and almost forms a suburb of the city on the Rhine. It obtained its city rights in 1285, and it became particularly well-known from 1567, when the prince-bishops of Cologne chose Brühl as their residence. The prince-bishops were clerical rulers of a prince-bishopric and at the same time secular rulers of a territory, which was called a high diocese.
The highlight of sights in Brühl dates from the time of the prince-bishops. These are the residence castle Schloss Augustusburg and the hunting castle Schloss Falkenlust. The castles are on the UNESCO World Heritage List, and together with the surrounding parks, they belong to Germany’s finest Baroque and Rococo buildings.
Schloss Augustusburg was built from 1725 on the foundations of a medieval castle that had been destroyed during French attacks. It was the architects Johann Conrad Schlaun and François de Cuvilliés who designed the beautiful residence castle, and François de Cuvilliés also designed Schloss Falkenlust as a small hunting castle that Archbishop Clemens August could use for falconry. Falkenlust was built in the years 1729-1740.
At Augustusburg, a magnificent baroque garden was established, designed by Dominique Girard. In the 19th century, the garden was transformed into the popular English landscape gardens of the day, but in the 20th century, the original castle garden was recreated, and it can therefore once again be experienced as one of the best examples of Baroque French gardening from the 18th century in Europe.
Schloss Drachenburg is a private residence that was built in 1882-1884 on the Drachenfels mountain in a distinguished architectural style with spiers and towers like a medieval castle. It was Baron Stephan von Sarter who built the castle, but after its completion he lived in Paris, where he stayed for many years.
It was the architects Bernhard Tüshaus and Leo von Abbema who drew the original plans, according to which construction began in 1882. During construction, Von Sarter brought in the architect Wilhelm Hoffman to complete the construction of Schloss Drachenburg. Today the castle is owned by a foundation and is open to visitors.
The castle is an experience, and so is coming here. This can be done with the Drachenfelsbahn cog railway, which runs from Königswinter via the castle to the heights of Drachenfels. The station at the top is at an altitude of 289 metres. The track is 1,500 meters long and has a track width of 1 meter and a maximum gradient of 20%.
Düsseldorf is beautifully located on the Rhine and is the capital of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia. The city’s name means the village on the river Düssel, but the village has grown over the centuries to be one of Germany’s largest cities and one of the culturally and economically important cities. Today, there are many things to see and do such as interesting museums, the Deutsche Oper am Rhein, the city’s playhouse and several attractions.
Altstadt is the name of Düsseldorf’s old town, and here the squares Marktplatz, Burgplatz and Stiftsplatz are lined up, each with their own sights. You can e.g. see the city’s old Renaissance town hall and the preserved castle tower from the 13th century, which is the only thing left of Düsseldorf Castle. Close to this stands the church of St. Lambertus, which is the oldest building in the Altstadt.
Leonhard-Tietz-Straße 1
galeria-kaufhof.de
Breite Straße 103-135
karstadt.de
Kalker Hauptstraße 55
koeln-arcaden.de
Neumarkt
neumarkt-galerie.de
Neumarkt 18-24
neumarktpassage.de
Breite Straße 40
opern-passagen.de
Aachener Straße 1253
rhein-center-koeln.de
Schildergasse, Hohe Straße, Breite Straße, Ehrenstraße, Mittelstraße, Pfeilstraße, Eigelstein.
Claudius-Therme
Sachsenbergstraße 1
claudius-therme.de
Kölner Seilbahn
Riehler Straße 180, Sachsenbergstraße, Auenweg
koelner-seilbahn.de
Kölner Zoo
Riehler Straße 173
koelnerzoo.de
Odysseum
Corintostraße 1
odysseum.de
Phantasialand
Berggeiststraße 31-41, Brühl
phantasialand.de
Sea Life
Rheinallee 8, Königswinter
sealifeeurope.com
Straßenbahn-Museum
Gemarkenstraße 173
hsk-koeln.de
Cologne’s urban history goes back to the time when Roman troops came to the territory of the Ubii people and settled on the west bank of the Rhine in the year 39 BC. The place was called Oppidum Ubiorum and was an important military outpost in the extreme Roman Empire to the northeast. In year 17, Rome abandoned the plans to conquer the Germanic areas east of the Rhine, and instead the border area west of the river had to be strengthened.
In the year 50, the status of Oppidum Ubiorum was increased when Emperor Claudius’ wife, Agrippina, wanted to see his birthplace elevated to colonia; a city under Roman law. The town was now called Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensis; named after both Claudius and Agrippina. The short name was Colonia Agrippina, and soon after its founding as colonia, new plants and institutions were established.
In the year 80, water supply was established. With the total 135 kilometer long Eifel aqueduct, water was led to the city from the Eifel Mountains to the southwest. In the year 90, Colonia Agrippina became the capital of the Roman province of Germania Inferior, and at that time 45,000 people lived here.
At the end of the century AD started the construction of a city wall with 9 gates and 19 towers. The 8-meter-high wall was completed in the 200’s, with the city’s population dwindling to about 15,000 in the city itself and another 5,000 in the area. However, the city remained significant, and in 260, Emperor Postumus made Colonia Agrippina the capital of the Gallic Empire, Imperium Galliarum. The kingdom consisted of 274 and included Roman territories in present Germany, England, France and Benelux.
In 310, Emperor Constantine I built a bridge over the Rhine, and on the eastern bank the Castellum Divitia castle was built as a protection; Divitia is today’s Deutz.
Christianity entered the 300th century, with Maternus in the year 313 counted as the city’s first bishop. Written sources first mention a church in 355.
Through the 300-400s, Colonia Agrippina was repeatedly besieged and attacked by the Franks. In 455 the Roman city fell and the Franks made it the capital. By this time, the Germanic Franks had continued to be divided into several tribes. In Cologne, they used the Roman infrastructure, city walls and buildings such as Prairie, which became a Franconian royal residence.
The centuries waged numerous power struggles between the king and his family as well as other influential people in the city about the area. Cologne’s status as a royal city ended in 755, when the Merovingian rulers had to relinquish power.
In the time of the Saxon Wars in the years 772-804, the importance of Cologne increased again. The political and cultural influence was not least driven by the city’s bishops and the church, which gathered relics and erected many churches for martyrs.
In 795, Cologne became archbishopric with Hildebold as the first archbishop; he had been ordained bishop of the city by Karl the Great in 787. In 873, one of the following in office, Willibert, was able to consecrate the cathedral which was the precursor to the present Cologne Dom.
In France there were internal strife which weakened the external defense. Cologne had also been under various control when the Vikings plundered Cologne in the beginning of the 880s and almost completely destroyed it. Before the ravages of the Vikings, some of the church’s people had moved the main treasures to Mainz, where they were safe. A great deal of reconstruction work was underway; among other things by the city wall. It was only 891 before relics were again transferred to the city.
In 925, Cologne’s affiliation in France was established. It happened after the Saxon Heinrich I’s victories for the Eastern Franc, which included the Lorraine and thus Cologne. Heinrich was king of the kingdom, predecessor of the German-Roman Empire and later and present Germany.
In the mid-900s, Emperor Otto I made Cologne’s archbishop the Duke of Lorraine and thus also the real leader of the city. The title involved trade rights, and the appointment was thus the starting point for Cologne’s centuries under the power of the church.
From the first reigning archbishop, Brun, many new buildings were started in Cologne; many churches were founded and new neighborhoods were generally built. New cultural inspiration came from Theophanu, who, as the daughter of the East Roman Emperor in Constantinople, married Emperor Otto II. Both Brun and Theophanu were buried at the Cologne Church of St. Pantaleon upon their death.
Cologne’s regional importance increased further when the archbishops of 1039 began issuing the coins Kölner Mark, which became the leading coin base in this part of the Rhine region. Politically, the city also developed, and in 1135 the city’s first town hall was inaugurated.
This was particularly important when Archbishop Rainald von Dassel brought the relics of Holy Kings to the city on July 23, 1164. The relics made Cologne one of the most important pilgrimage destinations of the Christian Church in Europe, and they were the cause of Cologne’s great cathedral and thus the present status of a major tourist destination.
In the decades around 1200, the archbishops commissioned one of Europe’s greatest fortifications; Cologne’s medieval city wall that was significantly larger than the Roman one. There were 12 city gates and 52 towers in the wall around the city.
In 1254, Cologne joined an alliance of 59 cities in the Rhine area. The union was formed in response to the precarious status of the German-Roman regime that had been in the interregnum. The primary focus was the elimination of the myriad of customs that made trade difficult. In order to strengthen Cologne’s position as a trading center, the archbishops introduced the so-called Stapelrecht, with which passing goods were to be offered for sale in the markets in Cologne.
June 5, 1288 became the day on which church rule in Cologne was overthrown. With the Battle of Worringen between Archbishop Siegfried von Westerburg and Duke Johann I of Brabant, the citizens of Cologne participated on the side of the victorious duke, and the city became de facto a free state city directly under the German-Roman emperor; although this status only became official in 1475.
In 1396, Cologne’s new constitution was passed, the Verbundbrief, which introduced a council of councilors. Around 1400, Cologne was the largest city in the German-Roman Empire, and in 1401 Ruprecht was crowned German King by the city’s Archbishop Friedrich III. Trade also flourished, and Cologne was a member of the Hanseatic League.
The 16th century was a time when the civil uprising in 1512-1513 resulted in more rights to the population. There was opposition to Martin Luther’s words that led to the Reformation, and in 1560 the great and long-standing construction work at Kölner Dom was stopped for financial reasons. It took more than 300 years for the church to be completed. In 1560, however, a great deal of construction work was also started; The Rhine stepped on the eastern shore, and it was thought the danger of breakthrough was great. In order to preserve the river’s flow, substantial reinforcements were built over the following centuries.
In 1709 Giovanni Battista Farina founded the oldest, present perfume factory in the world, and here he produced some of what has put Cologne’s name on the world map, the cologne water / eau de Cologne. In 1716 the perfume also became an export commodity and over time a number of manufacturers sought to copy the success.
In 1794, Cologne was conquered by the French Revolutionary Army, and the former councilor’s government was halted. The French, after the example of the home country, established a municipal administration. The French government conducted the year after a numbering of the town houses, and house number 4711 later gave the name to one of the city’s well-known brands of cooling water.
In the late 18th century, the city’s monasteries were demolished, and the Concordate in 1801 between Napoleon and the Catholic Church, Cologne was demolished as the archdiocese. This status gained Aachen instead, and with the concordat ended the French struggle against the church in Rome.
The citizens of Cologne became all French nationals in the early 19th century, when Napoleon also visited the city. It was in 1804, when, on September 13, he was received with cannonades and ringing church bells; he rode through the gate of Eigelstein to Neumarkt.
On January 14, 1814, the French troops left Cologne in favor of advancing Prussian forces, and with the Vienna Congress in 1815, Prussia gained a larger territory in the Rhineland; including Cologne, which, however, retained French currency until 1848.
The original drawings for the facade of the incomplete cathedral were found, and the desire for completion of the mighty building became a matter as a symbol of a German national movement. With popular gathering and support from the Prussian King Friedrich Wilhelm IV, construction could be resumed in 1842 after a standstill since 1560. Until 1868, a 1300-century crane could still be seen at the top of the church; this year the church’s interior was finished and the impressed facade was started. The church was completed in 1880.
Throughout the 19th century, the infrastructure in and around the city was significantly expanded and utilized. The English steamship Defiance reached Cologne as the first of its kind in 1816, and overall transport increased along the Rhine, and from 1839 the railroad also traveled from Cologne to more and more cities. 1855-1859 Dombrücke was built as the first bridge in Cologne across the Rhine since Roman times. With the completion of the bridge, a new railway station was inaugurated and the trains now ran across the river.
In the last decades of the 19th century, the medieval city wall was demolished and the city needed space to grow. The city wall was replaced by an outer fortress ring that could protect the rapidly growing number of inhabitants. From 73,000 citizens in 1837, the city grew to 640,000 in 1913. After World War I, the city’s defense was looped in accordance with the Treaty of Versailles.
In the 1920s there was again growth in the city. The Hansa High House was built from 1924 to 1925 and was at the opening Europe’s tallest office building. The same year, the Kaufhaus Tietz department store started Germany’s first escalator. The city bought a former military airfield northwest of the city center, and after opening as an airport, it quickly became one of Germany’s largest.
In 1929, American Ford laid the foundation stone for a car factory in the city, providing additional economic sustenance to the city, whose cultural scene also flourished these years; not least musically.
On January 4, 1933, Adolf Hitler and Franz von Papen met at the address Stadtwaldgürtel 35. Von Papen had been chancellor through 1932 and at that time replaced by the last chancellor of the Weimar Republic, Kurt von Schleicher. At the meeting, it was agreed that Adolf Hitler should be the future Chancellor of the Kingdom rather than von Papen.
In 1936, German troops returned to the demilitarized Rhineland. During World War II, large parts of Cologne were destroyed. The first aerial bombardment took place on May 12, 1940, and after a total of 262 air strikes, 95% of the Old Town was in ruins. The Rhine bridges were destroyed, while Cologne’s cathedral stood almost undamaged in the ruin cluster.
On March 9, 1945, the US military government established itself in Cologne, and on May 4 of that year, the later Chancellor, Konrad Adenauer, resumed his former office as mayor of the city. Adenauer had held the title from 1917-1933 and this time occupied the post a transition before Hermann Pünder was appointed in November 1945.
In 1946, the first local elections were held and Cologne came to the Federal Republic of Germany to belong to the state of North Rhine-Westphalia. Traffic began to run across the rebuilt Hohenzollern bridge in 1948, and the years following sprouted initiative, exhibitions and other activity in Cologne.
During the German Wirtschaftswunder, the country’s economy flourished in the following decades, and prominent guests visited the city. In 1962, it was President of France Charles de Gaulle, and the following year, US President John F. Kennedy came to visit. Churchly, Pope John Paul II came to Cologne in both 1980 and 1987.
Culturally, since the end of World War II, there has also been much development. In 1957, the city’s new opera house opened, and the following decades followed several major museum openings; among others the Roman-Germanic Museum in 1974 and the Museum Ludwig in 1986.
Today, Cologne is Germany’s fourth largest city with a wealth of trade shows and exhibitions. The city’s location and the many offers to tourists with the cathedral as the absolute landmark also attract lots of tourists to the beautiful Rhinby.
Cologne Cathedral, Germany[/caption]
Overview of Cologne
Cologne is a great German city, where most people think of the majestic cathedral, which is one of the world’s largest churches, and which since the foundation of the church has been a pilgrimage church because of the relics of the Biblical Magi. The church continues to throne over the city as one of both Germany and Europe’s major buildings, and a visit to the church is worth the whole trip to Cologne.
Cologne has so much else to offer besides the cathedral. With the status of Roman colony, there was an early city here, and relics from that time are still to be seen in many places in the city and in museums. Today the Roman monuments blend with Cologne’s numerous large churches, mainly dating to the Romanesque period, the medieval city gates, cozy squares and modern Cologne.
Sights, museums, gastronomy and shopping are plentiful in Cologne, and at the same time there is a nice, relaxed atmosphere that fits well with a cold Kölsch. The Rhine river meanders along the city center, and the river promenade is a nice place for a walk with views to the old town, for example from the green settings in Rheinpark.
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Groß Sankt Martin is a Catholic church whose history dates back to around the year 960, when Archbishop Brun von Sachsen founded the site and dedicated it to St. Morten; also known as Martin of Tours. This earliest church was even established on the foundations of a Roman-era building.
The current church was built around 100 years after the city fire in 1150. The style is Romanesque, and the distinctive tower has been one of the dominant buildings in Cologne’s skyline ever since.
Groß Sankt Martin also functioned as a monastery until 1802. At that time there were still 21 monks here who had to find other places to live. The abandoned buildings were temporarily used by French veterans, but otherwise demolished and reused as building materials elsewhere in the city. After the Second World War, only a few walls remained, and in 1985 it was able to reopen in an elegantly rebuilt style.
The name Great St Martin comes from the fact that there were two churches dedicated to St. Martin. Of Little St Martin/Klein Sankt Martin, only the tower is preserved today (Augustinerstraße 25).
Museum Ludwig was established in 1976 and exhibits a collection of modern art. The starting point was industrialist Peter Ludwig’s donation of 350 works in return for the foundation of the museum. The distinctive museum building was designed by Peter Busmann and Godfrid Haberer, and it opened in 1986 in a prominent location immediately next to Cologne Cathedral.
The museum’s collection consists of works from 1900 to the present day, and there is much to see on a visit here. Among other things, Peter Ludwig had established a collection of works by Pablo Picasso, which is one of the largest in the world. In Sammlung Ludwig there is also Russian avant-garde art and American pop art. You can also see works from Josef Haubrich’s collection, which for example contain expressionism and modernism.
Old Market Square is one of the largest squares in Cologne’s old town. In Roman times, the area lay outside the walls and was used as a port. Gradually, the place became covered with sand, and it became part of the city’s expansion. Today, the square is characterized by the many gable houses, several of which are interesting.
Gaffel Haus (Alter Markt 20-22) is the square’s oldest house; it was built with a single gable in 1213. In 1580 it was extended with a twin house, so that today it stands as a double house. The name Gaffel Haus comes from the brewery that has been located here since 1987.
Cologne’s town hall consists of several buildings that have been built continuously since the 14th century. In the past, the Roman Praetorium was located here, and until 475 it was the seat of the Roman governor. From at least 1135, a form of city government was established on the site, and in 1330 the Romanesque building was replaced by the Saalbau in the current town hall complex. The core of the Saalbau and the entire town hall is the meeting hall Hansasaal, which measures 30×7 meters in floor area.
The 61 meter high town hall tower, Ratsturm, was built 1407-1414. The Renaissance loggia Rathauslaube is from the years 1569-1573. It includes, among other things, the balcony from which the public was continuously addressed. In the Dutch Renaissance, the so-called Spanish Building/Spanischer Bau was built 1608-1615. The name comes from the Spanish delegates who were here during the 30 Years’ War in the 17th century.
In connection with the reconstruction after the Second World War, the large atrium, the Piazzetta, was constructed, forming a small space between the older buildings.
4711 is one of Cologne’s trademarks that makes its way around large parts of the world. In this house on Glockengasse, the famous eau de Cologne was born, and since then it has been one of the leading brands of perfume.
Haus 4711 is in itself an experience with the distinctive exterior and fine interior, where you will find the 4.5×3.5 meter tapestry depicting the house numbering at 4711 during the city’s French era. It is said that there were around 7,500 houses in Cologne when General Daurier ordered them numbered in 1796 for better orientation. A French soldier on a white horse rode around, and he gave this particular house the number 4711.
The retelling of the soldier’s ride and the numbering can be experienced in the house’s carillon on the facade. Figures come out at full hours, and here the Marseillaise is played, among other things.
The name 4711 has been used since 1881, when competitors were finally banned from using the Farina name for eau de Cologne, as the original manufacturer used it. Instead, the owner, Ferdinand Mülhens, decided to call it the old house number. Mülhens had already been producing eau de Cologne since 1803, but under a Farina name.
Cologne water bears the world-famous name Eau de Cologne. This fragrant perfume is an extract of natural scents, and it has been produced in Cologne since Johann Maria Farina in 1709 mixed the scents of orange, bergamot, cedar, lemon, grape, lime, tangerine and herbs with water.
Farina called the fragrance Echt Kölnisch Wasser, and it is the original that is still produced and sold. Johann Maria Farina opposite Jülichs Sted/Johann Maria Farina gegenüber dem Jülichs-Platz was the name of Farina’s factory, and that building remains today the setting for the original Eau de Cologne. Among other things, the Fragrance Museum is located here, where you can see an exhibition about perfume production.
Gürzenich is a ballroom building that was built 1441-1447 on the grounds of the patrician family von Gürzenich; hence the name. The castle-like house was supposed to provide a framework for various meetings and cultural events, and this is a function it continues to have today.
Among the highlights over time is the holding of the Reichstag in 1505, in which the later German-Roman Emperor Maximilian I participated. On May 6, 1849, Karl Marx delivered his Communist Manifesto in the hall of Gürzenich.
Over the centuries, Gürzenich has also laid floors for e.g. magazine purposes, the city’s philharmonic orchestra and masked balls.
The Alt Sankt Alban church was consecrated in 1172. Its tower was added in 1494, and the church was rebuilt in the 17th century. In 1896, the facade was changed, and during the Second World War, Alt Sankt Alban was destroyed, so that only the walls partially remained.
In 1959, the church was laid out as a memorial monument for the victims of the world wars. It was left standing as a ruin and is thus seen without a roof and windows. Instead, a Ny Sankt Alban/Neu Sankt Alban was erected elsewhere in Cologne.
At this museum you can take an ethnological journey through the cultures of the world. The collections consist of tens of thousands of effects from all over the world; from the Inuit to the life and history of Polynesian peoples.
The museum’s exhibition is presented excitingly by taking up global themes and conveying how these have regionally developed in different directions. As something special, there is also a junior section, the Junior Museum, which appeals to children and young people.
The Antoniterkirche is a late Gothic church that in 1805 became Cologne’s first Protestant church. Previously it belonged to the Antonite Order, which in the 18th century became part of the Johannite Order.
In the church, you can see, among other things, window parts from the 16th century and the sculpture Den Svævende/Der Schwebende, which was made by Ernst Barlach in 1926-1927. The horizontally floating sculpture is also called the Barlach-Engel/Barlach-Engel and was made for the cathedral in Güstrow. In the 1930s, works of art, including Barlach’s, were labeled as degenerate art/Entartete Kunst by the German regime, and in 1937 the angel was removed and melted down.
Some of Barlach’s friends and followers found the original plaster figure and in 1939 had a copy produced. The copy was saved until after World War II, when it was put up for sale. Cologne companies raised money, and in 1952 the angel could be hung in the Antoniterkirche.
Rheinpark is a large green area along the eastern bank of the Rhine. The area became vacant when Cologne’s defenses were dismantled, and from 1907 they began to turn the otherwise fallow land green.
In 1914, the Werkbund exhibition/Werkbundausstellung was established here, and among the primary sights was Bruno Taut’s glass pavilion. The First World War put an end to the exhibition and the continued establishment of the park, but in the first half of the 1920s there was new activity. The first buildings in the Kölner Messe exhibition complex were established here. From the 1920s, to the southwest in the Rheinpark is the 80-metre-high Exhibition Tower/Messeturm and the Staatenhaus with its long, curved facade.
Around the park from north to south, you can ride the miniature railway Kleinbahn im Rheinpark, which was built in connection with a garden exhibition in 1957. The track had a gauge of 381 mm; it was later expanded to 600 mm during a re-routing in 1971. The round trip is 2 kilometres.
Ulrepforte is one of the four preserved, fortified city gates from Cologne’s medieval city wall. It was built at the beginning of the 13th century and inaugurated in 1245. With a passage of four metres, the gate was the narrowest of the city’s gates, and the fortification consisted of two semi-circular towers. In 1450, Ulrepforte got a new purpose, as the gate was bricked up and converted into the Kartäuser Windmühle mill. This is the reason for the tall tower that can be seen at the gate today.
Ulrepforte was at the center of battles in Cologne in 1268. Here the archbishop’s soldiers lined up in front of the city wall, and there were about 300 of these who had penetrated the fortifications through a hole that the archbishop’s people had made a local shoemaker. It was a time when Cologne led by the Overstolz family strove for independence from the power of the bishop, and during the battle the citizens of Cologne defended themselves and managed to defeat the invaders.
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